Eyelash Extension Application Course
Product Knowledge
Knowing which products you need and how to use them is essential as a lash artist.
Lash Extension Trays
You will need to have a selection of extensions available because each client has different natural lashes. Different curls and patterns are needed to fit your client’s unique eye shape and desired look.
Watch the video below and read the additional information to learn everything you need to know about lash extension trays. CLICK PLAY TO BEGIN...
CLICK TO PLAY.
There are four components to every lash extension that you will need to know when deciding what to use on the client.
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1. Material (what the extensions are made of...)
Eyelash extensions can be made of real mink (not widely used due to inhumane practices) or synthetic fibers (usually referred to as silk, synthetic mink, and/or flat lashes). They come in many different lengths, shapes, and thicknesses.
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Real Fur from Mink: Very few suppliers still sell real mink lash extensions due to the unethical practices and allergies clients experience. We do NOT support the production or sale of real mink eyelash extensions and we are committed to only using manufacturing plants who are also committed to being vegan-friendly. If you want to learn more, click here to watch a video about a mink farm (beware of graphic footage).
2. Diameter (lash thickness)
The diameter of the lash extension is often referred to as the “weight”. The weight and diameter are not always directly correlated though.
Used to create advanced technique volume/russian volume, and mega-volume lash fans (don't worry about these right now):
.03, .05, and .07 diameters
Used to create classic lash sets:
.10, .12, .15, .18, and .20
We recommend never using anything larger than .20 diameter. There are .25 diameter lashes but they are usually pretty uncomfortable for clients and do not look very good.
Below are blown-up versions of the lash extension diameters.
Diameter Recommendations for Classic Lash Extension Application:
Fine Natural Eyelashes: 0.10 mm to 0.12 mm diameter eyelashes have the most natural look. This means more work for the stylist who needs to attach 50 to 100 eyelashes or more on each eyelid. The fine 0.10 mm eyelashes are used for very fine natural eyelashes that cannot take too much weight.
Pro Tip: If you have a blonde client and you are having difficulty seeing the lashes, tint the eyelashes first (if this is allowed in your state).
3. Curls (how curly the extension is...)
You can have a slight curl, curved or curled lash. These letters representing the curls may seem a little confusing now, but you will soon become very familiar with them.
Listed from LEAST to MOST curly:
J, B, C, CC, D, DD, L, L+
The most common curls used today are B, C, & D. If you only have those three curls available at your lash salon, you will be set! The L and U curls are not as common. You may notice that some product manufacturers call DD curl lashes, U curl lashes.
J-Curl eyelashes are the straightest and closest to the natural lash curl in most women. They start out by being straight and curl a little at the ends. They are suited for clients desiring length and volume. However, the volume is not visible from the front but rather in profile and when the eyes are lowered.
4. Lengths (how long the extension is...)
Less is more! The extension should be at THE MOST 50% longer than the natural eyelash. If you apply a longer lash than this, the lash will turn and poke your client in the eye as it grows out.
Lash Extension Glue
Your lash glue is the priciest product you will purchase to perform this service so it is important that you buy the right glue for your skill level, climate, comfort, and client base. Most lash artists will go try and waste money on many lash glues before they find the right one. The reason most lash artists go through this wasteful and expensive process is that most lash trainings aren't teaching the new lash artists how to choose glues, and explaining why some work for them, and some do not.
Glue Ingredients
All professional eyelash extension glue contains the main ingredient called, cyanoacrylate. Some lash glues have more or less in their formula, but they all have it. Cyanoacrylate is a type of acrylic. This is an important ingredient for you to know and understand.
Cyanoacrylates make up almost all of the strong glues that you see on the market, including super glue and all industrial adhesives.
Glue Allergies
Some clients will have or develop allergies to your glue. This will happen with any lash extension glue you buy, but there are some glues that have higher levels of cyanoacrylate and those may cause more clients to develop the allergy.
In the allergy section of the training, we will talk about how these allergies develop.
What can you do to minimize allergic reactions to your glue?
If a client has sensitivities to products, wash the lashes, eyelid, and under the eye before the client leaves.
There will be more information about this in the allergy section.
How to choose your glue:
SKILL LEVEL
For newer lash artists, a glue that has a slower dry time (3-5 seconds) is best because as you are learning, you will need more time to get the lash attached. As you advance, you will want to buy quicker drying glue (1-2 seconds).
How to care for your glue:
There are many companies that will try to sell you all sorts of gadgets to take care of your glue. From jars to store the glue in, to shakers, and everything in-between. But, there is no need for any of these items. Just follow the directions below to care for your glue. This is all you need to do.
STORE IN A ROOM TEMP PLACE
Do not refrigerate your glue. Condensation will form inside the glue bottle and it will cure the glue from the inside of the bottle. The best place is a drawer in your studio.
Tips to get the best results with your glue:
MIST LASHES WITH NANOMISTER
During and after the service, mist the lashes with the nanomister. When water and lash glue come in contact, the glue solidifies. Always fill your nanomister with distilled water.
What is "shock polymerization"?
Something you may notice one day is that the glue on your client's lashes will frost white after their eyes got watery during the service, or you misted them with water before the lashes were dried.
That's the result of shock polymerization, also known as "blooming". The scientific chemistry term for this is “efflorescence” (in French it means “to bloom”). When the lash glue (specifically the ingredient, cyanoacrylate) is exposed to too much water before the glue is dry, it can flash cure, become white, hard and brittle. In other words, it cures too fast and this is bad for retention.
The Merriam-Webster dictionary defines polymerization as “a chemical reaction in which two or more molecules combine to form larger molecules that contain repeating structural units.” Cyanoacrylate, the main active ingredient in eyelash extension adhesive, needs to polymerize in order for the lash glue to "cure". This process turns the adhesive from liquid to hard and solid. This is what we want as lash artists because it allows the client's lash extensions to last and also allows them to wet their lashes without any retention issues.
How to prevent shock polymerization (lash glue curing TOO QUICKLY)?
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Dry your work with a fan before nano misting.
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Change your glue drop every 20-30 minutes.
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If a client gets very watery eyes, dry the lashes as quick as possible.
TWEEZERS
There are many different lash extension tweezers available. You will probably try out many different tweezers until you find the right ones for your hands and the way you apply the lashes. Expensive tweezers don't always mean better tweezers.
You will need two different tweezers to apply lash extensions:
1. Application tweezer: This is the tweezer in your dominant hand that you will use to pick up the lash extension and place it on the natural lash. There are many options but here are my favorite two options...you'll have to find what works for you:
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Straight, strong grip, pointy, and short. These are my personal favorite because they give me a lot of control, are strong enough to remove old lash extensions, and inexpensive so if I drop them and they get bent, I don't feel bad about throwing them out. Buy one on Amazon here if you don't already have one.
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Curved Volume Tweezers. I love these for classic application and find these make it easier to apply the lash extension. But, you will have to see what works for your hands and method. Buy one on Amazon here if you don't already have one.
2. Isolation tweezer: This tweezer will be used in your non-dominate hand to isolate a single natural lash so that you can see it while you apply the extension. You may need to try a few different types to find what works for you.
Here are some varieties of lash isolation tweezers recommended (keep in mind there are many other varieties):
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Straight, strong grip, pointy, and short. These are my personal favorite because they give me a lot of control, are strong enough to remove old lash extensions, and inexpensive so if I drop them and they get bent, I don't feel bad about throwing them out. Buy one on Amazon here if you don't already have one.
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Straight, medium/weak grip, pointy, and long. These allow you to ensure you are not putting too much of your hand weight on the client's forehead but they have less control than the shorter straight tweezers. Buy one on Amazon here if you don't already have one.
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Curved, medium/weak grip, and long. Buy one on Amazon here if you don't already have one.
How to hold your tweezers:
Put them in your hands and act like you are throwing a dart. This is how you know they are in the right position in your hands.
NANOMISTER
The nanomister is key to curing the lash extensions at the end of the service. The fine mist of water from the nanomister touches the dried but not completely cured lash adhesive/glue and cures it. By doing this, your clients can get their lashes wet right away (no waiting 24 hours) and it prevents stinging when the client opens their eyes.
How to use the nanomister:
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Use distilled water (or bottled spring water). Do not use tap water and do not fill from the tap. Particles in the tap will build in your mister and it won't work overtime.
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Empty and leave your mister open after the end of each day, otherwise mold will grow.
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Keep the mister around 5 inches away from the natural lashes.
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Wave the mister from eye to eye and cure at the end for around 15 seconds each eye.
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If you see water particles forming – you are too close!
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If you see a white film on the lashes, you have shock polymerized the adhesive and this white film is actually tiny cracks in the adhesive which can affect retention and it looks bad.
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Mist your client’s (and your own!) eyes after they are open to return moisture to the eye – I actually mist casually during the day while sitting at my desk, it feels amazing!
FAN
You will use your fan to dry the lashes before you mist them with the nanomister. It is recommended to buy a rechargeable fan instead of a battery-run one. You can buy the one below on Amazon here.
OTHER ITEMS YOU NEED
Disposable Mascara Wands: this is what you will use to brush the lash extensions. Never brush uncured (dried and misted) lashes as brushing uncured lashes will cause them to stick together. NEVER REUSE MASCARA WANDS. GIVE THE CLIENT THE MASCARA WAND YOU USED AT THE END OF EVERY SERVICE.
Disposable Microfiber Wands: this is what you will use to clean and prime the lashes. Do not use cotton swabs as they will get stuck in the lash extensions. Cotton also can react with wet glue which is why cotton is not used in the eyelash extension service. NEVER REUSE MICROFIBER WANDS.
Glue Rings: This is what you will put the glue in. NEVER REUSE GLUE RINGS.
Lash Cleanser: This is what you will use to clean the lashes.
Witch Hazel: This is what you will use to prime the lashes and remove the excess oil. There is no need to buy a special lash primer. And, more importantly, you want to minimize chemicals near the eyes so using witch hazel is much safer than the chemical mixtures in primers on the market. You can buy it at Walgreens, the grocery store, or on Amazon.
Double-Sided Tape: You'll use this to attach your lash extension strips to it. You can buy this at Walmart, etc. Make sure you buy the Scotch brand tape because the off-brand tape doesn't stick well enough (from personal experience).
Micropore Tape: This is used to pull up the eyelid and tape down the bottom lashes.
Eye Pads: These are placed under the eyes to protect the client's under-eye skin and keep the bottom lashes down.
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